Restaurants thaw the winter blues with a lot of
good eats
By Carolyn
McKibbin/ Correspondent
Thursday,
March 23, 2006
It took Michael McEwen, executive chef
of West on Centre, 20 minutes to devise the three-course prix fixe
menu for this West Roxbury restaurant's second time participating in
Restaurant Week.
"I'd
wanted to do some things that I haven't done in a while," said
McEwen. "I tried to be adventurous for the neighborhood."
Boston's
first Winter Restaurant Week took place March 5 through 9 in 90
restaurants throughout greater Boston. Sponsored by the Greater
Boston Convention and Visitors Bureau and American Express, the
winter and summer Restaurant Weeks were designed to help generate
business during the slowest times of the year for dining out. The
summer season's event, which has taken place for five years, is held
in August.
March's
Winter Restaurant Week was the first time West Roxbury was garnered
its own region in Boston, similar to the North or South ends,
instead of being clumped into the broad category of "greater
Boston."
West
Roxbury had two participating restaurants; the other was
Vintage.
Patrons
delighted at three-course dinners for $30.06 and lunches for $20.06.
West Roxbury Main Streets' Kelly Tynan appeared on the local cable
access channel to publicize the frugal dining event.
"It's
a great time to check out a new place if you've never been there
before," said Tynan. "Or it's an opportunity to go back and see
what's been going on if you have already tried a restaurant. I mean,
$30 really is a great deal."
West
on Centre's owner Joe Greene said this special occasion gave McEwen
an opportunity to shine.
"He
can put a lot of thought into the menu," said Greene. "It's a chance
for him to be creative and do things he can't typically do."
Greene
said one example of this is in food presentation.
"You
should see the fried bass - it looks excellent. It really showcases
our restaurant and [McEwen's] work."
That
bass is deep fried whole, and appears on a plate with head, fins and
tail intact. A few other items on the menu were ricotta fritters,
ginger beef skewers, gnocchi gratin and the chocolate hazelnut Swiss
roll.
McEwen
said for the special menu he played with Asian flavors, such as
coriander and star anise, as well as traditionally Middle Eastern
spices of cumin, cilantro and saffron.
"Health
and flavor can co-exist or be two entirely different things," said
McEwen. He prefers the former.
"When
I work a lot and am eating bad food, I crave lots of green
veggies."
McEwen's
entrees seek to balance vegetables with protein - "things that are
fresh and vibrant" - with depth and flavor. He uses hearty greens
such as chard, cabbage and kale, which are all full of antioxidants.
There are aromatic veggies, including onions, fennel and chalets, in
his soups and braze sauces.
The
weekend before Winter Restaurant Week started, McEwen was geared for
three consecutive days of solid bookings.
"This
should be fun," said McEwen. "I'll be exercising a few different
muscles."
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